We woke up this morning to an unbelievably bright and crisp autumn day. I have been itching to return to Hermann after having passed up three years of Oktoberfest, so we decided to drive there today. It's a very picturesque forty-five or fifty minutes from Jefferson City on Highway 94, which hugs the northern shore of the Missouri River all the way to St. Louis. We could have taken 50 East, but the view, while not bad in some places, is just not the same as the 94, which runs through the river valley, into the hills, runs startlingly close to river bluffs, and affords a couple of dramatic glimpses of the river in such small towns as Portland.
Missouri has only one world-class grape, the Norton. Local vintners are capable of making a superb dry red with this grape. A mid-Missouri Norton is almost guaranteed to be a good bottle if it was a good year. Less reliable are the various sweet and sweetish-dry German style whites that were pioneered by German immigrants who
transplanted varietals from the Rhine valley to this area. Some are pretty good, but some are too foxy, others too sweet. But it is definitely worth looking for the best of the latest vintages.
Hermann, settled in 1839 by German immigrants, is a lovely town, full of stunning mid-to-late nineteenth century buildings, many in excellent condition. The vernacular architecture is interesting as well, reflecting many styles that can be found in river towns throughout the state along the major waterways. We arrived at lunchtime and grabbed bratwurst and kraut from street vendors only forty feet from the parking lot. I've never minded eating on the street, as long as it's good, and these brats were tender and tasty. But in retrospect, I wish we had waited, for a much more interesting place neither Abbey nor I, despite being veterans of several Hermann Oktoberfests, ever remember seeing. Perhaps it's a new place.
We crossed the street and the creek to sample wines at Hermannhof Winery, which has the strategic advantage of being right in the middle of downtown; there are several wineries in the area, in more remote locations, some more worthy than Hermannhof. But Hermannhof has a few decent wines, and there were two grownups and three younguns along for the ride, so we were looking for a streamlined winery experience. Abbey tasted wines while I shepherded kids. The kids and I picked out snacks, and Abbey ultimately picked out a not-too-sweet white, a 2007 Vidal Blanc, which we had later at home with some fresh Manchego (also purchased at Hermannhof) and honeycrisp apples. We resisted the delicious smell of cinnamon sugar almonds from a vendor right there in the weingarten, holding out for unknown treats within walking distance.
After picking up some kettlecorn on the street and scoring some homemade cookies at an animal shelter fundraiser, we felt like he were doing pretty well. But as the afternoon wound down, we found ourselves in need of a bit more sustinance, and an interesting place to enjoy it. We found it quite by accident. Called
Time For Pie, a couple of blocks off of the main drag, few words had to be exchanged to convince everyone to go there. Located in yet another antique storefront, the interior sported plain wood floors, a black stamped tin ceiling, and vintage tables and chairs. The menu is an interesting blend. Like all restaurants that wish to take advantage of the Oktoberfest crowds, they offer bratwurst and kraut, but unlike any other place I've been in Hermann, they offer multiple types of sausage from local specialists, the
Swiss Meats Company. We had already had our brats for the day, but I know where I'm getting mine next time we go to Hermann. Also on the menu was a hearty, delightful beef and barley soup, quite savory and delicious, not too salty as some beef stews tend to be. In addition, they have a full-service espresso drink bar, and a number of interesting fruit smoothies. But most notable of all is the pie, available by the pie or the slice, in, among many others, cherry, blackberry, mixed berry, apple and apple-cranberry. We ordered a slice of cherry to share, along with other goodies, and swarmed a table covered with puzzle toys to wait. Soon it arrived warm and ready to devour. The crust was light and tasty, the filling tart with the flavor of cherries with a lovely hint of vanilla. It's the best cherry pie I have had in a long time. We will be returning soon, in fact that place alone will be bringing me back to Hermann a lot sooner than the next 'Fest.
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